Kluane National Park and Reserve

Kluane National Park and Reserve takes up the entire southwest corner of the Yukon territory and includes the Canadian portion of the Satint Elias Mountains – the highest coastal mountains in the world and the highest points in Canada.

After hitting up the visitors center and talking to a park ranger (“park wardens” in Canada), we opted to start our exploration of the park on the Alsek River Valley Road by mountain bike.  We found a nice secluded wild camping spot from an offshoot of that road just outside the park boundary.  The next day gave us cold and heavy winds but we set out anyway by bike.  We didn’t go as far as I would’ve liked but the scenery was fantastic all the way.  That afternoon we had a surprise visit from a local who was out for a walk who chatted me up for a long while.

Following the Alsek River Valley Road

We took off again the following day and explored a little further along the Alaska highway to Kluane Lake, the Ä’äy Chù (Slim’s River) trailhead and the Silver City ghost town.  We walked around the ghost town for a bit trying to figure out what we’re looking at – lots of kennels for animals of different sizes apparently.  (A fox farm according to this web site.)

Our next destination was Kathleen Lake.  We looked for a suitable wild camping spot but eventually settled on the established campground there. The next day we took up the King’s Throne trail and it was quite the climb the entire way but ever more fantastic panoramic views.  Darlene tapped out around 4100 feet but I continued for a while longer (4900 ft) before deciding it was getting late and the trail feeling more precarious on my own.

Half-way up the Kings Throne Trail above Kathleen Lake
A little video of our ascent of the King’s Throne trail

That evening we headed north on the highway a little bit and turned off to follow a rough fishermans road along Quill Creek until we picked out a camp spot.  The aurora watch web sites showed that good activity was expected that night so I set up cameras ready for the usual long exposure time lapse recordings and kept watch.  I was using my DSLR, my iPhone and my new Insta360 X5 camera that records in all directions at once (albeit with a pair of smallish sensors).  It wasn’t long before we were treated to what began as a really great aurora display.  It was really nice, lots of dancing colors in many directions.

It started out as a really nice aurora display…

And then things went nuts! We got what we would later learn is called a full auroral outburst.  The whole sky erupted and lit up the ground much brighter than a full moon could.  The curtains and swirls of color ran the full gamut of reds and purples and greens and they were moving fast – swirling and cascading around in real time.  Normally you would capture an aurora on camera using extended exposures to bring out the colors that aren’t so obvious to the naked eye and you record many frames in time lapse over dozens of minutes to speed up the motion that is typically very slow, much like slow-moving clouds.  Well now the whole sky, in every direction, was animating and swirling in full color to our naked eyes.  This went on for many minutes… tt was fantastic!  Unfortunately, my cameras were still running with long exposures and/or in time-lapse while we were so distracted by the light show.  But that’s fine, it was awesome!  I’ve done what I can with the footage, slowing down and correcting exposure as much as I could:

…and then the sky went nuts!

We had already decided that we needed to start making our way back home but that aurora display was a wonderful topper for our whole Canadian road trip.

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